Melange branches out with new site in Haddonfield

By    Michael Klein

Source: Philadelphia Inquirer, The (PA); 502 words

Published: 2008-06-05

Section: FEATURES FOOD   |   Page F04   |   Edition: ADVANCE   |   Memo: Table Talk

Joe Brown, successfully fusing Louisiana and Italy for 14 years at Melange Cafe in Cherry Hill, has ventured into Haddonfield with another BYOB, Melange @ Haddonfield (18 Tanner St., 856-354-1333).

The larger spot, which opened last month, represents a new role for Shadee Holden, one of Brown's proteges. The East Camden-raised Holden started working for Brown while in high school. He went to Johnson & Wales (class of 2006), landed at Alphabet Soup and the late 707, and returned to Brown in Cherry Hill. Holden says his menu, which incorporates both large and small plates, still is based on Cajun-Italian but is broader. "You know how we young chefs are," Holden says.

Menu prices are similar to Cherry Hill's, where chef de cuisine Erick Duber runs the show; dinner entrees top out at $28. Haddonfield's hours are longer; it's open for lunch and dinner Mondays through Saturdays, and for dinner only Sundays. Tapas on the patio will begin soon.

What's new

Bistro on the Brandywine, a French-leaning BYOB, has opened next door to Brandywine Prime Seafood & Chops at Routes 1 and 100 in Chadds Ford (1623 Baltimore Pike, 610-388-8089). Both are owned by Dan Butler, also of Deep Blue, Toscana Kitchen + Bar, and Toscana's catering and to-go operations. The bistro, with country-chic environs, is set up in what was a general store from the late 19th century, complete with stone hearth for individual pizzas. Butler installed Deep Blue sous chef Seth Harvey, doing such bistro fare as coq au vin, spinach-and-ricotta-filled crepes, and moules frites, topping out around $20. Until the liquor license is in place, the $5 corkage fee will be waived. It's open for lunch Mondays through Saturdays and dinner nightly.

What's coming

Carlo deMarco and Rob Donaldson of 333 Belrose in Radnor are opening Firecreek, a midlevel steak house with house-smoked barbecue and burgers, at Routes 322 and 30 in Downingtown. Construction is about to begin, so this is months away.

Briefly noted

After three months, Bobby Chez Cafe in Glen Mills - the largest operation bearing the Bobby Chez name - has obtained its liquor license. There's also a 50-seat outdoor patio.

Scott Turnbull has surfaced as sommelier at the Four Seasons Hotel after leaving the Park Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue. He previously sommeliered and managed at Striped Bass.

Pat Bombino's in South Philly has added a liquor license, and says the limoncello is homemade.

Bridget Foy's on South Street, which recently finished a renovation, has added breakfast seven days from 8 a.m. weekdays and 9 a.m. weekends.

Blue Eyes a Steak and Seafood Joint in Washington Township has opened an outside patio bar.

Conshohocken's Trattoria Totaro has added Ken Ulsh, formerly chef at Totaro's on Hector Street, to the kitchen overseen by head chef Jason Baker.

Contact columnist Michael Klein at 215-854-5514 or mklein@phillynews.com. See his recent work at http://go.philly.com/michaelklein.

Illustration/Photo: TOM GRALISH / Inquirer Staff Photographer

Owner Joe Brown (seated) has installed protege Shadee Holden as the chef at Melange @ Haddonfield. Holden had worked at the original Melange Cafe in Cherry Hill.

© Philadelphia Inquirer, The (PA)